Downloads (3)

This is a chemical product. Before storage or use you must download and read the accompanying safety and technical datasheets.

Safety Datasheet (SDS)1 MB
Dutch Safety DataSheet1 MB
Technical DataSheet (TDS)244 KB

Specification

Product Data
ColourClear
Chemistry / MaterialEpoxy
Viscosity190mPa.s
BrandEasy Composites
Bio-Based Carbon Content35%
Shelf Life24Months
Cured Mechanical Properties
Max Service Temp90°C
Impact Resistance25kJ/m2
FlexibilityHard / Rigid
Tensile Strength78MPa
Tensile Modulus3.23GPa
Elongation at Break5.8%
Flexural Modulus3.2GPa
Flexural Strength127MPa
Interlaminar Shear Strength52MPa
Compressive Strength107MPa
Tg Onset (DMA)90°C
Pot Life and Cure Times
Initial Cure Time13.5Hrs
Pot Life (Typical)20mins
Gel Time (Typical)4.5hrs
Full Cure Time14Days
General Properties
Gross Weight1.088kg

Shipping Information

Restrictions

In the currently selected pack size, this product is classed as dangerous goods in limited quantity for the purposes of transport.

Shipping is possible to all UK addresses, including the Channel Islands, without restriction. However, due to being classed as 'dangerous goods', delivery times are not guaranteed on any delivery service.

Shipping to EU countries is now done through our European subsidiary based in the Netherlands. All EU customers should use www.easycomposites.eu.

To check availability of shipping to any other country, add the item to your basket and use the shipping calculator on the basket page.

For a full information regarding the shipment of dangerous goods to all destinations, see our delivery information page.

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There are no package size restrictions or surcharges for this product.

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LB2 Epoxy Laminating Bio Resin

LB2 Epoxy Laminating Bio Resin is a medium viscosity clear two-component epoxy resin system with ~35% resin plant derived content, this offers a lower environmental impact without compromising on performance.


PRODUCT VERSIONS

Kit Size

AVAILABILITY:8 in stock available for immediate shipping


PRICE
£19.70ex. VAT
(£19.70 /KG)
8 in stock available for immediate shipping
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KITS
KITS
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LB2 Epoxy Laminating Bio Resin is medium viscosity and optimized for hand laminated applications, while it is compatible with all common fibre reinforcements it is particularly well paired with flax reinforcements to provide composite parts with a significantly reduced environmental impact.

Our bio resins are not compromised in performance but simply derive the same chemicals from plant-based sources. A key component of epoxy, epichlorohydrin, is manufactured using renewable plant-based Glycerol in place of petroleum-based propylene. Additionally, the raw materials going into our bio resins are co-products or waste products of other industrially important processes which means they do not compete with food sources or displace food-based agriculture. The resin component contains 35% plant based content. Once mixed with its hardener the overall plant-based content is ~27% which is amongst the highest in the industry.

LB2 is a high-performance bio epoxy resin suitable for use with a wide range of reinforcements including glass, carbon and aramid fibres as well as natural reinforcements such as flax and jute fibre. Its viscosity profile is particularly suitable for hand laminating and bonding applications including open hand layup and vacuum bagging processes. For resin infusion or RTM processes we have another Bio Resin, IB2, which has a lower viscosity and a cure profile that is better suited.

Uncompromised mechanical properties compared with conventional ‘non-bio’ epoxy resins. Compatible with carbon, glass, aramid and natural fibres, Hand laminating, vacuum bagging and bonding. Sustainable Resins for Greener Products

Further Information

Typical Uses

Having excellent mechanical and processing properties the LB2 Epoxy Laminating Bio Resin can be used for a wide range of uses including but not limited to:

  • Sports/recreational equipment - skis, boards, canoes, archery.
  • Motorsport – panels, aerodynamic elements, structural members.
  • Marine – hulls, foils, masts.
  • Wind energy – masts, blades, nacelles.

LB2 is the perfect choice for use in combination with our range of sustainable natural flax reinforcements from Eco-Technilin. Used together, these materials allow the development and production of greener products with significantly reduced environment impact. You can find our full range of flax fibres here: Natural Fibre Reinforcements

Compatibility Information - Dos and Don'ts

Although by no means an exhaustive list, the mould materials, pigments and additives listed below have all been tested and are known to work well with LB2.

Compatible Moulds

  • Uni-Mould Mould System
  • Epoxy Tooling Gelcoat
  • Epoxy gelcoat based moulds
  • Polypropylene and polyethylene sheet
  • Aluminium
  • Toughened Glass (eg. flat sheet manufacture)

Compatible Pigments

  • Epoxy Colour Pigment * (for vivid opaque colours)
  • CULR Pigment * (for vivid opaque colours)
  • Translucent Tinting Pigment * (for less vivid opaque colours)

Compatible Fillers

  • All dry filler powders

* With bold coloured laminates such as carbon fibre, the underlying colour of the fabric may still show through the pigmented resin, especially with thinner layers of resin over the underlying laminate.

Key Processing Information

  • Ease of Use : LB2 resin has no unusual characteristics and offers good ease of use and reliable performance (follow SDS advice).
  • Odour : LB2 is almost odourless.
  • Safety Precautions : Wear gloves and goggles and work in a well-ventilated area. Always read the SDS before use.
  • Ambient Conditions : Can be used from 15 to 30°C although pot-life and cure time will be affected significantly. Recommended working at an ambient of 20-25°C.
  • Degassing : Not necessary in most cases. Simply mix and use.
  • Mix Ratio : Mix 'Resin' and LB2 Epoxy Hardener' 100:27 by weight. Use digital scales.
  • Mixing : Mix thoroughly by hand for at around 2 minutes.
  • Pot-Life : Pot life of 500g @ 20 °C is 23 minutes. Increasing ambient temperature and/or batch size can significantly reduce this time.
  • Exotherm (Over-Heating) : Resin will heat-up whilst it cures. Mix in small batches and use expediently. Mixed resin in a pot will quickly overheat (exotherm) and can smoke/ignite. Never leave mixed resin unattended.
  • Cure Time/Demould : At 20°C you can expect a typical gel time of 4.5 hours, and an initial cure of 13.5 hours with a recommended demoulding time of 24 hours.
  • Pigments and Fillers : A wide range of pigments and fillers can be added to change the properties and appearance of Resin.

Resin and Hardener Crystalisaton

The Resin and Hardener is sensitive to low temperatures and if they get cold (either in storage or transport), it can crystalise; this does not damage the product at all and can be reversed by warming the product in its container with the lid securely in place. The longer it has been crystallised, the longer it will take to reverse. This can be achieved by sitting it directly onto a radiator, putting it into an oven on a low setting or standing the container in hot water.

PRODUCT VIDEOS(1)

LB2 Epoxy Laminating Bio Resin is medium viscosity and optimized for hand laminated applications, while it is compatible with all common fibre reinforcements it is particularly well paired with flax reinforcements to provide composite parts with a significantly reduced environmental impact.

Our bio resins are not compromised in performance but simply derive the same chemicals from plant-based sources. A key component of epoxy, epichlorohydrin, is manufactured using renewable plant-based Glycerol in place of petroleum-based propylene. Additionally, the raw materials going into our bio resins are co-products or waste products of other industrially important processes which means they do not compete with food sources or displace food-based agriculture. The resin component contains 35% plant based content. Once mixed with its hardener the overall plant-based content is ~27% which is amongst the highest in the industry.

LB2 is a high-performance bio epoxy resin suitable for use with a wide range of reinforcements including glass, carbon and aramid fibres as well as natural reinforcements such as flax and jute fibre. Its viscosity profile is particularly suitable for hand laminating and bonding applications including open hand layup and vacuum bagging processes. For resin infusion or RTM processes we have another Bio Resin, IB2, which has a lower viscosity and a cure profile that is better suited.

Uncompromised mechanical properties compared with conventional ‘non-bio’ epoxy resins. Compatible with carbon, glass, aramid and natural fibres, Hand laminating, vacuum bagging and bonding. Sustainable Resins for Greener Products

Further Information

Typical Uses

Having excellent mechanical and processing properties the LB2 Epoxy Laminating Bio Resin can be used for a wide range of uses including but not limited to:

  • Sports/recreational equipment - skis, boards, canoes, archery.
  • Motorsport – panels, aerodynamic elements, structural members.
  • Marine – hulls, foils, masts.
  • Wind energy – masts, blades, nacelles.

LB2 is the perfect choice for use in combination with our range of sustainable natural flax reinforcements from Eco-Technilin. Used together, these materials allow the development and production of greener products with significantly reduced environment impact. You can find our full range of flax fibres here: Natural Fibre Reinforcements

Compatibility Information - Dos and Don'ts

Although by no means an exhaustive list, the mould materials, pigments and additives listed below have all been tested and are known to work well with LB2.

Compatible Moulds

  • Uni-Mould Mould System
  • Epoxy Tooling Gelcoat
  • Epoxy gelcoat based moulds
  • Polypropylene and polyethylene sheet
  • Aluminium
  • Toughened Glass (eg. flat sheet manufacture)

Compatible Pigments

  • Epoxy Colour Pigment * (for vivid opaque colours)
  • CULR Pigment * (for vivid opaque colours)
  • Translucent Tinting Pigment * (for less vivid opaque colours)

Compatible Fillers

  • All dry filler powders

* With bold coloured laminates such as carbon fibre, the underlying colour of the fabric may still show through the pigmented resin, especially with thinner layers of resin over the underlying laminate.

Key Processing Information

  • Ease of Use : LB2 resin has no unusual characteristics and offers good ease of use and reliable performance (follow SDS advice).
  • Odour : LB2 is almost odourless.
  • Safety Precautions : Wear gloves and goggles and work in a well-ventilated area. Always read the SDS before use.
  • Ambient Conditions : Can be used from 15 to 30°C although pot-life and cure time will be affected significantly. Recommended working at an ambient of 20-25°C.
  • Degassing : Not necessary in most cases. Simply mix and use.
  • Mix Ratio : Mix 'Resin' and LB2 Epoxy Hardener' 100:27 by weight. Use digital scales.
  • Mixing : Mix thoroughly by hand for at around 2 minutes.
  • Pot-Life : Pot life of 500g @ 20 °C is 23 minutes. Increasing ambient temperature and/or batch size can significantly reduce this time.
  • Exotherm (Over-Heating) : Resin will heat-up whilst it cures. Mix in small batches and use expediently. Mixed resin in a pot will quickly overheat (exotherm) and can smoke/ignite. Never leave mixed resin unattended.
  • Cure Time/Demould : At 20°C you can expect a typical gel time of 4.5 hours, and an initial cure of 13.5 hours with a recommended demoulding time of 24 hours.
  • Pigments and Fillers : A wide range of pigments and fillers can be added to change the properties and appearance of Resin.

Resin and Hardener Crystalisaton

The Resin and Hardener is sensitive to low temperatures and if they get cold (either in storage or transport), it can crystalise; this does not damage the product at all and can be reversed by warming the product in its container with the lid securely in place. The longer it has been crystallised, the longer it will take to reverse. This can be achieved by sitting it directly onto a radiator, putting it into an oven on a low setting or standing the container in hot water.

Downloads (3)

This is a chemical product. Before storage or use you must download and read the accompanying safety and technical datasheets.

Safety Datasheet (SDS)1 MB
Dutch Safety DataSheet1 MB
Technical DataSheet (TDS)244 KB

Specification

Product Data
ColourClear
Chemistry / MaterialEpoxy
Viscosity190mPa.s
BrandEasy Composites
Bio-Based Carbon Content35%
Shelf Life24Months
Cured Mechanical Properties
Max Service Temp90°C
Impact Resistance25kJ/m2
FlexibilityHard / Rigid
Tensile Strength78MPa
Tensile Modulus3.23GPa
Elongation at Break5.8%
Flexural Modulus3.2GPa
Flexural Strength127MPa
Interlaminar Shear Strength52MPa
Compressive Strength107MPa
Tg Onset (DMA)90°C
Pot Life and Cure Times
Initial Cure Time13.5Hrs
Pot Life (Typical)20mins
Gel Time (Typical)4.5hrs
Full Cure Time14Days
General Properties
Gross Weight1.088kg
Can’t find the answer you’re looking for?Ask our technical team a question.

As with many post-cure cycles for resins, the post-cure cycle for our EL2 and IN2 Epoxy Resins is not too sensitive and a range of different post-cure cycles will produce good results, specifically improved mechanical performance and elevated HDT/operating temperature. Post-curing parts that will be used at or exposed to elevated operating temperatures (such as vehicle bonnets/hoods in direct sunlight, engine-bay parts, car interior parts etc.) is strongly recommended to prevent distortion of the parts when they are put into service and experience these higher temperatures.

Where possible, parts should be post-cured still inside the mould to reduce distortion and improve surface finish (i.e. reduce 'print-through'). When post-curing parts in the mould, it is important to post-cure them without demoulding at all (i.e. don’t demould and then put them back into the mould) otherwise you can get some strange patterns on the surface where some areas are post cured in direct contact with the mould surface and others are not.

A simple and very effective post-cure cycle with the IN2 Infusion Resin (or EL2 Epoxy Laminating Resin) is as follows:

CYCLE #1 SUITABLE FOR MOST SITUATIONS

  1. 24hrs at room temperature
  2. 6hrs at 60°C

If you’re encountering any surface finish issues (faint print-through) then you can experiment with a slower 'ramp rate' which sometimes improves things:

CYCLE #2 SUGGESTED FOR SUBTLE IMPROVEMENTS TO SURFACE FINISH

  1. 24hrs at room temperature
  2. 2hrs at 40°C
  3. 2hrs at 50°C
  4. 5hrs at 60°C

If you need to push the HDT of the finished part higher then you could increase post-cure up to a maximum of 80°C as follows:

CYCLE #3 SUGGESTED FOR HIGHEST POSSIBLE HDT/OPERATING TEMPERATURE

  1. 24hrs at room temperature
  2. 2hrs at 40°C
  3. 2hrs at 50°C
  4. 2hrs at 60°C
  5. 2hrs at 70°C
  6. 4hrs at 80°C
  7. These are all just suggestions. Most situations just call for option #1; 6hrs at 60°C. Many customers also find that they can dispense with the 24hrs cure at ambient and simply load newly infused parts into the oven to begin the cure however this is something that you would need to experiment with yourself. A cure at ambient temperature before post-cure is generally favoured with most resin systems.

Yes, but it's highly recommended to use specialist 'powder bound' chopped strand matt. This is because conventional chopped strand matt is 'emulsion bound' which relies on styrene and solvents in the resin to break the binding down. Epoxy does not have these solvents. As a result, specialist 'powder bound' chopped strand matt is needed as the powder binding is broken down by the liquid itself.

Most cured epoxy resins have self-extinguishing properties however none of our epoxies have formal 'fire rating' data because they're not designed as intumescent or fire retardant resins. The reinforcement you use will also have an impact on the fire retardancy of the finished product.

If you're specifically setting out to make fire-retardant parts I would suggest using a specialist intumescent resin - however, bear in mind that generally these resins will contain inert fillers which compromise their mechanical performance to some extent.

100% solids epoxy resins, including this one, don't contain any solvents and so they don't produce any fumes during mixing, use or cure. There is just the faintest smell but, as stated, this is not fumes and so there is nothing really to consider in terms of density.

No, we wouldn’t suggest Epoxy Resins for lining a fuel tank. In general, epoxies have good resistance to petrol and many of the chemicals and additives found within pump fuel however the ethanol in fuel is known to cause problems over time and so specialist tank lining resins (often novalac vinylester based) should be used instead. One such product is GTS 1750 which is sold by Caswell Europe.

No, this epoxy in common with other epoxies does not attack expanded polystyrene

We have not specifically saught FDA (or similar) approval for this resin system so if you were to make these plates commercially then you would either need to make a plate using this resin system and then have it tested and approved safe for food use or use a different resin system that has specifically been approved for food use. Mixed and cured fully and properly the resulting plastic should be stable and non-toxic but testing would be required to prove this. Regarding being dishwasher safe; a dishwasher is a very harsh environment (abrasive, high temperatures, caustic) and so I think it would be quite hard on any resin system. By all means conduct your own tests but I would strongly recommend that a carbon fibre plate was not marketed as 'dishwasher safe'.

Although generally cured epoxies are non-hazardous, none of the products we have are certified food safe and thus we cannot recommend their use with food products.

We recommend Acetone. The brushes must be cleaned before the resin has cured. If you can’t get hold of acetone it’s also possible to use methylated spirits or neat alcohol.

In really simple terms you can think of 1kg of the Epoxy Resin as being 1L. If you want to be really exact (for example if you want to mix the resin and the hardener by volume and not by weight (which we don't recommend because it's unnecessarily complicated) then the relative density of the resin and the hardener, and the mixed product, can be found on the technical datasheet.

We can send any quantity of resin to Portugal. We would use a TNT Road service. To find the shipping cost for any item, simply add it to your basket and then click the 'Estimate Shipping' button on the basket page. The price will then be shown once you chose your shipping country (Portugal).

Unlike other resin systems such as polyester or vinylester, it's very important to get the mix ratios accurate with epoxies. If you get the mix ratio wrong by a small amount (let's say a couple of grams on a small mix) then the resin will still cure but the mechanical properties won't be quite as good as they would have been if the mix ratio had been exactly right. However, if you were to be out by anything more than a few grams then you might find that the resin would not be properly hard when cured and/or may have a tackiness to the finish. This would result in a much weaker repair and needs to be avoided by careful measurements.

Above the HDT of a resin system it will soften slightly and its mechanical properties will start to fall away however a thermosetting plastic (like epoxy) is NOT a thermoformable plastic so it will not start to flow again such that you could melt it out of your part. It's more likely to become slightly soft and then possible more brittle again before eventually starting to burn if you too the temperature high enough. It sounds to me like you need a thermoformable plastic (aka a thermoplastic) with a relatively low melting point. I'd suggest something like PCL.

An elevated temperature post-cure is not required for parts made with epoxy resin however, post curing parts will improve the mechanical properties of the resin (and therefore the part) and so if you have the means to do it then it's certainly recommended. One major advantage to post-curing epoxy is that you will raise the HDT (heat distortion temperature) of the part meaning that it's less likely to soften or distort in higher temperatures. This can be particularly important for parts like a vehicle panel (i.e. hood/bonnet) which could get very hot in the sun. Without a post-cure there is a good chance that the part would effectively post-cure itself 'in situe' when it's in direct sunlight which can cause the resin to soften, sink and then re-harden. When this happens to a fitted part it's likely to distort the surface finish. A part that had been post-cured prior to installation would not have this problem.

Epoxy resins have very little odour and so it's quite viable to use them indoors (i.e. in your house) without upsetting anyone. The resin is almost completely odourless and the hardener has an amonia smell which doesn't really carry or linger.

In this respect epoxies are very different to polyester and vinylester resin which has a very strong smell and cannot realistically be used indoors. As always, you should still follow safety precautions and ensure adequate ventilation of your work area.

Uncured resins are classed as dangerous goods and would need to be disposed of correctly. For domestic users, usually your local council recycling centre will have a disposal service for such chemicals or containers.

Because cured resins are inert and safe for disposal it's often easiest to mix un-needed or out-of-date resin and hardener together to cure them. Once cured they can be disposed of with general waste.

Epoxy is sensitive to low temperatures so we would not attempt to try and cure the resin at very low temperatures such as below 15 °:C. At those temperatures, the cure time will be lengthened considerably.

One of the most significant problems caused by low temperatures (much below 20°C) is that the resin will be considerably thicker which affects its ability to self-degas after pouring.

Also, curing epoxies are hydroscopic so the low temperature environment may well leave the resin vulnerable to absorbing moisture, especially if the environment is relatively damp or high in humidity as can be found in some outdoor workshops or home garages.

As a result, for best results we always recommend working in an environment that is 20°C or above.

The B stage of the cure is when the resin has cured enough to be firm but still tacky. When touching with a gloved finger, the resin should feel tacky but not leave any residue on the glove.

The mixing ratio by volume is 100 parts resin to 31 parts hardener.

No, you wouldn't need to add anything to the LB2 in order to use it as a high quality top-coat, that generally applies more to polyester and vinylester resins where they might have intentional 'air cure inhibition' which needs to be overcome with the addition of a wax additive so that they cure (and sand) properly when used as a coating. LB2 doesn't behave that way at all and will cure properly and sand and finish nicely.

For the very best possible surface finish from a clear epoxy, you could also consider our XCR Epoxy Coating Resin. Although we don't market it as such (mainly because it can actually put some people off) our XCR resin also has a high bio content, almost as high as IB2, but has a really premium gloss finish and first-class UV stability, so it's worth considering if you're after a 'bio' resin with the best possible surface finish.

LB2 is fairly typical of epoxies in terms of its viscosity and thixotropy which means that it has a medium viscosity that would allow it to be applied to the outside of an aluminium tube but it's very thixotropic and would soon start to run off. You could make the resin more thixotropic by mixing in some fumed silica powder, in the same way that resins are turned into gelcoats. LB2 could certainly be thickened sufficiently with fumed silica to make it stay in place (without sagging or running) on a vertical surface.

Having said that, I think that if you wanted to ensure that the resin had fully filled the cavity between the two cylinders that you would need to either pour/squeeze resin down into the cavity or use some mild suction (for example from a syringe) to suck resin up into it.

Before you try to sand the resin, it does need to have reached a good level of cure. The more cured it is, the easier and better it will sand and finish. The time it will take to cure will vary significantly based on the ambient temperature, including factoring for variances in temperature during the cure.

The 'demould' time for LB2 is 13hrs at 20C but if you want to sand the resin and have machine nicely, you'll either want to wait at least 24hrs you could 'post-cure' the resin at 40-60C for 12hrs. There is more detailed information on post-curing on the resin's datasheet. Although not necessary, resins always machine better after a post-cure.

No, not really. EL2 and IN2 have been our flagship resins for 10 years now and have a fantastic reputation and so we will always want to have these resins in our offer. However, new 'bio-derived' resin technology has come along, like the LB2, which offers similar performance for a similar price and uses a percentage of bio-derived content too. There will be some handling differences of course and some users will prefer EL2 and some might prefer LB2 for a specific application.

One of the only real disadvantages of IB2 and LB2 is that the resin is quite vulnerable to crystallisation if it sits for any length of time, particularly in cooler conditions. This can be quite easily reversed (with heat) if it does occur, but it's a problem that doesn't occur with EL2 or IN2.

You couldn't work from just a 'resin per square metre' ratio if you only know the fibre type. Instead, a good 'rule of thumb' for calculating how much resin you'll need for a hand layup is to simply assume a resin to fibre (by weight) ratio of 50/50. This means that - for most reinforcement types at least - you'll need the same weight of resin as you have in fibre. So, if you have 2 plies of 200gsm that would be 400gsm (grams per square metre) of reinforcement and so you'd need 400g of resin for every square metre of area. Although it's quite simple, this basic principle holds true for most types of reinforcement including carbon, aramid and glass. Natural fibres, like flax, are a bit more 'thirsty' and - in a hand layup - will end up needing more like 40/60 (60% resin).

This 50/50 ratio is only true for a hand layup. If you were doing a resin infusion (using IB2 for example) then you'd calculate 60/40 (60% fibre).

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Shipping Information

Restrictions

In the currently selected pack size, this product is classed as dangerous goods in limited quantity for the purposes of transport.

Shipping is possible to all UK addresses, including the Channel Islands, without restriction. However, due to being classed as 'dangerous goods', delivery times are not guaranteed on any delivery service.

Shipping to EU countries is now done through our European subsidiary based in the Netherlands. All EU customers should use www.easycomposites.eu.

To check availability of shipping to any other country, add the item to your basket and use the shipping calculator on the basket page.

For a full information regarding the shipment of dangerous goods to all destinations, see our delivery information page.

Package Size

There are no package size restrictions or surcharges for this product.

Delivery Cost

To find the availability and cost for delivery of this item to your address, add it to your basket and then use the instant shipping calculator on the basket page.

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