Downloads (2)

Safety Datasheet (SDS)315 KB
Technical Datasheet (TDS)96 KB

Specification

Product Data
ColourClear
Maximum Casting Thickness6mm
Max Service Temp50°C
Chemistry / MaterialEpoxy
Viscosity3500mPa.s
UV StabilityVery Good
BrandArtResin
Pot Life (Typical)50mins
Initial Cure Time24
Cured Mechanical Properties
Hardness78 (Hard)Shore D
FlexibilityHard / Rigid
Tensile Strength55MPa
Flexural Strength103MPa
Elongation at Break7%
Tg Onset (DMA)50°C
General Properties
Gross Weight4.2kg

Shipping Information

This product is safe for all forms of transport. No restrictions apply.

Simply add the item to your basket and then use the Shipping Calculator on the basket page to find the shipping price for this (and any other items).

ArtResin Clear Epoxy Coating for Artwork

ArtResin® is a clear, UV resistant, non-toxic, glossy epoxy coating resin developed by artists specifically for artwork and photos. Artresin can be used to apply a clear, glossy coating to pictures, photos, badges and more. It can also be tinted or coloured to produce beautiful resin art.

Sold as a kit (resin and hardener). Available to buy online in 236ml (8oz), 946ml (32oz), 3.78l (1 gallon) and 7.57l (2 gallon) kits.


PRODUCT VERSIONS

Kit Size

AVAILABILITY:5 in stock available for immediate shipping


PRICE
£118.99inc. VAT
(£29.95 /KG)
5 in stock available for immediate shipping
QTY
EACH
EACH
We won’t be beaten on price!

If you believe you’re buying an equivalent product cheaper elsewhere, contact us to discuss your requirements.

Easy Composites are delighted to have partnered with Canadian and US company ArtResin® Inc as official distributors of their incredible ArtResin® product...

If you're looking to add a beautifully clear, glossy, UV stable art coating resin to your artwork, photos or other creative projects then world-renowned ArtResin offers unsurpassed performance coupled with incredible ease-of-use for perfect results, every time.

ArtResin is a two-part epoxy resin with an easy 1:1 mix ratio by volume. Its unique formulation means that the resin self-levels to form a perfectly flat, super-shiny finish free of any surface imperfections (sometimes known as blush) or trapped air. If any air bubbles do appear, a light breath over the piece is usually all that's required to release them.

Once cured, ArtResin provides a super-clear, semi-flexible art coating resin that won't shrink, distort or yellow over time.

Further Information

Easy to Use

ArtResin uses a simple 1:1 mix ratio by volume. Mix as much resin as you need by measuring out equal parts of resin and hardener and then combining them carefully and thoroughly for several minutes. (calibrated mixing pots available Here.) Once mixed, ArtResin can be poured over many types of artwork, photographs, stickers, badges and much more.

Full details on all the amazing ways that ArtResin can be used, along with a huge selection of inspiring tutorial videos and galleries can be found on the official ArtResin website.

Non-Yellowing

ArtResin was designed by artists, for artists and as such the number one priority was always to ensure that ArtResin looks as good in years to come as it does when you first pour it. To achieve this, ArtResin uses unique HALS technology which is an extremely efficient light stabiliser allowing ArtResin to start clear and stay clear for as long as possible.

Safe

Uniquely, ArtResin is a certified 'non-toxic' art resin when used as directed. It conforms to ASTM D4236 which is a US certification meaning that it is safe for home use. It contains no solvents, produces no VOCs or fumes and is non-flammable. Although ArtResin is non-toxic, you should still always follow common sense safety precautions; wearing gloves and work in a well ventilated area. For detailed health information, please see the ArtResin SDS.

Beautiful

ArtResin makes things look fantastic. A perfect, super shiny finish can transform watercolours, oils, mixed media, photographs, child masterpieces, in fact just about any creative project, in new exciting ways. Once you start to experiment with ArtResin on your artwork or craft projects, the only limit is your imagination and if you're a professional artist or art print business, you'll find that ArtResin's clear epoxy for art can significantly increase the value of your work.

Pack Sizes

For a quick guide to the approximate coverage of each pack, see below:

ArtResin® Pack SizeCoverage (Metric) Coverage (sq ft)
236ml Sample Kit35cm x 35cm2 square feet
ArtResin 964ml Starter Kit 0.7sqm 8 square feet
ArtResin 3.78L Studio Kit3sqm32 square feet
ArtResin 7.56L Professional Kit6sqm64 square feet

Guide only. The exact coverage will depend on how thick you want your glossy resin coating and the type of media you are covering.

ArtResin® is a registered trademark of ArtResin Inc in the USA, Canada and the United Kingdom. The ArtResin name, brand and artwork are used with permission from ArtResin Inc.

Easy Composites are delighted to have partnered with Canadian and US company ArtResin® Inc as official distributors of their incredible ArtResin® product...

If you're looking to add a beautifully clear, glossy, UV stable art coating resin to your artwork, photos or other creative projects then world-renowned ArtResin offers unsurpassed performance coupled with incredible ease-of-use for perfect results, every time.

ArtResin is a two-part epoxy resin with an easy 1:1 mix ratio by volume. Its unique formulation means that the resin self-levels to form a perfectly flat, super-shiny finish free of any surface imperfections (sometimes known as blush) or trapped air. If any air bubbles do appear, a light breath over the piece is usually all that's required to release them.

Once cured, ArtResin provides a super-clear, semi-flexible art coating resin that won't shrink, distort or yellow over time.

Further Information

Easy to Use

ArtResin uses a simple 1:1 mix ratio by volume. Mix as much resin as you need by measuring out equal parts of resin and hardener and then combining them carefully and thoroughly for several minutes. (calibrated mixing pots available Here.) Once mixed, ArtResin can be poured over many types of artwork, photographs, stickers, badges and much more.

Full details on all the amazing ways that ArtResin can be used, along with a huge selection of inspiring tutorial videos and galleries can be found on the official ArtResin website.

Non-Yellowing

ArtResin was designed by artists, for artists and as such the number one priority was always to ensure that ArtResin looks as good in years to come as it does when you first pour it. To achieve this, ArtResin uses unique HALS technology which is an extremely efficient light stabiliser allowing ArtResin to start clear and stay clear for as long as possible.

Safe

Uniquely, ArtResin is a certified 'non-toxic' art resin when used as directed. It conforms to ASTM D4236 which is a US certification meaning that it is safe for home use. It contains no solvents, produces no VOCs or fumes and is non-flammable. Although ArtResin is non-toxic, you should still always follow common sense safety precautions; wearing gloves and work in a well ventilated area. For detailed health information, please see the ArtResin SDS.

Beautiful

ArtResin makes things look fantastic. A perfect, super shiny finish can transform watercolours, oils, mixed media, photographs, child masterpieces, in fact just about any creative project, in new exciting ways. Once you start to experiment with ArtResin on your artwork or craft projects, the only limit is your imagination and if you're a professional artist or art print business, you'll find that ArtResin's clear epoxy for art can significantly increase the value of your work.

Pack Sizes

For a quick guide to the approximate coverage of each pack, see below:

ArtResin® Pack SizeCoverage (Metric) Coverage (sq ft)
236ml Sample Kit35cm x 35cm2 square feet
ArtResin 964ml Starter Kit 0.7sqm 8 square feet
ArtResin 3.78L Studio Kit3sqm32 square feet
ArtResin 7.56L Professional Kit6sqm64 square feet

Guide only. The exact coverage will depend on how thick you want your glossy resin coating and the type of media you are covering.

ArtResin® is a registered trademark of ArtResin Inc in the USA, Canada and the United Kingdom. The ArtResin name, brand and artwork are used with permission from ArtResin Inc.

Downloads (2)

Safety Datasheet (SDS)315 KB
Technical Datasheet (TDS)96 KB

Specification

Product Data
ColourClear
Maximum Casting Thickness6mm
Max Service Temp50°C
Chemistry / MaterialEpoxy
Viscosity3500mPa.s
UV StabilityVery Good
BrandArtResin
Pot Life (Typical)50mins
Initial Cure Time24
Cured Mechanical Properties
Hardness78 (Hard)Shore D
FlexibilityHard / Rigid
Tensile Strength55MPa
Flexural Strength103MPa
Elongation at Break7%
Tg Onset (DMA)50°C
General Properties
Gross Weight4.2kg
Can’t find the answer you’re looking for?Ask our technical team a question.
Yes ArtResin is compatible with most epoxy compatible pigments. 

Watch the video: How Can You Tell if Your Epoxy Resin is Safe?

ArtResin® has been certified by the American Society for Testing and Materials to be non-toxic when used as directed (conforms to ASTM D4236). ArtResin® is formulated using the highest quality materials. ArtResin® produces no VOCs or fumes and is non-flammable. It is a clean system, meaning there are no solvents or non-reactive diluents—everything in it reacts so nothing is free to become airborne.It is therefore classified as a non-hazardous material and is shippable by air. Many curatives have a powerful odor, however ArtResin® has only a low odor and is applicator friendly.

ArtResin® is derived from museum conservation-grade materials to ensure its water-clear clarity is preserved for decades. Many resins contain a UV stabilizer to help delay the epoxy's natural yellowing process, however this alone is not enough to prevent yellowing from happening. ArtResin® contains both a UV stabilizer as well as an advanced additive called HALS (hindered amine light stabilizer) that interrupts the yellowing process before it can begin. The result is that ArtResin® stays clear both in the bottle and once cured.

Epoxy resins are prone to yellowing and other degradative effects from UV light, so stabilization additives are used to help mediate the damage. A UV stabilizer works to protect against gloss loss, cracking, chalking and de-lamination, and to some extent yellowing. A UV stabilizer merely delays yellowing in resins, so ArtResin® has a HALS (hindered amine light stabilizer) added for extremely efficient long term yellowing protection.

Yes once ArtResin® is cured it becomes safe as per FDA 21CFR177.2280 (safe for incidental food contact). You can check out the ArtResin® SDS for further details. Here is the exact FDA link: http://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=177.2280

The exact coverage that you will get will very much depend on the thickness that apply the ArtResin® at. Given a typical application thickness of 1mm you will achieve a coverage of 1sqm for each litre. If you double this thickness to 2mm, you will achieve half the coverage, so 0.5sqm, per litre. Likewise, you could consider that you need to double the quantity or resin to 2L per square metre. So, the simple rule is 1L per mm thickness per square metre.

Given that typical 1mm thickness, the you'll get the following coverage from the different ArtResin® pack sizes: The 200ml Mini Kit will cover approximately 0.2sqm. The 1L Starter Kit will cover 1sqm. The 4L Studio Kit will cover 4sqm and the 8L Professional Kit will cover 8sqm.

ArtResin® will stay fresh for about 6 months in an opened bottle, or 1 year unopened.

Yes, you can do a second coat of ArtResin®. You may choose to do this for instance if the first coat wasn't poured thick enough to cover areas of high relief, if you wish to fix or repair the first coat, or if you simply like the look of a thicker coat. To apply a second layer, you will prepare and apply the resin exactly the same way as the first, however you must lightly sand the first layer in between to provide some tooth so the second layer can adhere properly. Sanding will cause the first layer to look scuffed until you pour the second coat on. Then the scuff marks will become invisible. Always wait until the first layer is dry before adding another.

ArtResin® is considered a non-hazardous material and is non-toxic when used as directed, however there are some common sense safety precautions that every user should follow:

Wear gloves. ArtResin® is very sticky in its liquid form, so gloves will protect the user from a mess, as well as skin irritation. Clean skin promptly with soap and water if it does come in contact with ArtResin®.

If ArtResin® somehow comes in contact with your eyes, flush with water repeatedly and do not rub. Promptly seek medical attention. Work in a well ventilated area. Wear a respirator if ventilation is poor.

For detailed health information, please see the ArtResin® Safety Datasheet. ArtResin® conforms to ASTM D4236, meaning it is certified as safe for home use.

Torches (e.g. a butane-filled Artist's Torch or a propane-filled blow torch) work extremely well to eliminate bubbles because they produce a flame which can easily be controlled and directed at an area of bubbles. When the resin is heated, it thins out which enables it to de-gas more easily. Heat guns can also work, however they are harder to direct heat to where you want it to go. An added benefit of the flame is that it will burn off tiny dust particles that may have landed in the resin. Of course, common sense and caution should be used when operating any torch or heat gun.

Yes, ArtResin® can be tinted with pigment, dye, acrylic or ink, although dye can fade over time. Simply drop color into the mixture while stirring for an all over saturated color, or drop it in clear spread out resin and watch its cool effects. We'll be offering our own line of resin tint in the coming months... watch for it!

ArtResin® will bond well to every medium, with the exception of wax paper and some plastics including silicone (i.e. materials that repel water). ArtResin® works extremely well on wood, glossy photographs, inkjet prints, acrylic, oil paint that has completely dried, watercolor, spraypaint, encaustic, raw canvas, ink, paper collage, oil pastel, cardboard, sculpture, silicone molds, leaves, rocks, and other found objects. You may want to avoid pouring ArtResin® over loose materials (this may include chalk pastels); anything that is not completely adhered to the surface of your work could potentially mix into the resin in its liquid form once it's poured and float around. Some lower quality papers absorb resin rather than allowing it to sit on top, in which case a sealant should be used over the paper first to avoid seepage. The best thing to do is experiment and have fun!

Yes, you can use ArtResin® over oil paint once it has dried thoroughly. ArtResin® will fully bond to and seal in any dry oil painting.

Yes, you can use ArtResin® over inkjet prints. There are many different kinds and brands of ink and paper, all of which will behave slightly differently. Glossy printed paper tends to work better than matte paper in allowing the resin to sit on top of the print without absorbing in. Glossy prints done at your local print shop will work great with ArtResin®.

Yes. ArtResin® will seal in all kinds of papers, including photo paper, tracing paper, linen paper, origami paper, etc. Resin isn’t like water—if you pour it on paper, it doesn’t necessarily soak into it provided you are using a decent quality paper. If you apply wet resin on dry paper, you will be able to touch the other side of the paper and it will be dry. Lower quality papers can absorb the resin making colors appear darker, however this can be corrected by first applying a sealant before using ArtResin®. Glossy paper works best for photos. If you are curious or hesitant as to what the outcome will be, simply conduct a test on a small piece of scrap paper first.

Yes, you can resin over acrylics. ArtResin® epoxy resin will not act as a solvent on acrylic so long as the surface you are resining is dry. If you are curious or hesitant as to what the outcome will be, simply conduct a test on a practice surface first.

Yes, but be aware that chalk pastel is made up of loose particles that could mix with the resin. If you are applying a large quantity of resin, you may be able to tilt the surface (e.g. your canvas or board) in order to spread the resin around—much like batter in a cake pan—(instead of using a spreader) to help prevent unwanted mixing.

Yes, you can easily use ArtResin® over a puzzle. Cut a piece of MDF board to the exact dimensions of your puzzle and adhere your puzzle to the board with a line of wood glue around the perimeter. Then apply the ArtResin®. Often puzzles require 2 coats because air is released from between the pieces in the puzzle which tends to create pitting in the first layer. A second layer will take care of any surface imperfections. Always remember to sand in between layers to encourage proper adhesion. ArtResin® on puzzles works best when the puzzle is created on glossy material as some customers have commented that the resin soaked into the paper making it look darker. If this is a concern, you may want to pre-treat your puzzle with a sealant first prior to applying ArtResin® to your puzzle.

Yes, ArtResin® looks great over wood. It brings out the wood's natural colors and grain. It also seals it and protects it, making for a great surface to serve food and drinks from, for example.

Yes, you can use ArtResin® over watercolor. Usually watercolor is very thick and high quality to stand up to water, so it is the perfect paper to apply resin to. Some papers can absorb resin, but watercolor paper typically does not.

Yes, you can resin over water-based or permanent marker once dry.

The data we hold on the honeycomb is the standard mechanical data as found on the Technical Datasheet on the "Datasheets" tab. We do not have any graphs or specific data for the non-linear performance and how it behaves as it crushes. The closest usable information is the compressive strength albeit it will be higher than the actual raw crush strength.

The compressive strength represents the ultimate compressive strength of the honeycomb in pounds per square inch when loaded in the thickness direction. In its raw state, this is known as bare compressive strength. When facings are adhesively bonded to the honeycomb material it is known as the stabilised compressive strength.

The crush strength is measured after the ultimate compressive strength has been achieved and the honeycomb begins to crush. Honeycomb tends to crush uniformly in a plastic way and the average load per unit of cross sectional area is known as the crush strength.

The relevance for energy absorbing/crash structures is that you will get a peak loading associated with the compressive strength, then as the material fails, the loading will reduce significantly to a more linear figure as the honeycomb crushes.

In Formula Student, (and many similar competitions) there are set limits for impact attenuators to achieve. You may well find the initial compressive strength based loading is too high to meet the rules. That is where "pre-crushed" honeycombs come into their own. Some manufacturers will "pre-crush" honeycomb blocks specifically for attenuator type uses. This means you have a block that has a predictable and very uniform crush strength and hence predictable loadings for the test.

Although we don’t supply pre-crushed honeycomb, it is available from some of the honeycomb manufacturers as it is commonly used in impact attenuators for Formula Student (along with foam blocks). Often foam is used due to cost and ease of use.

Yes, ArtResin® will adhere to aluminum extremely well.

Watch the video: Using ArtResin® Over Sculpture and 3D objects

Yes, you can apply ArtResin® to sculpture and 3D objects by painting it on in thin coats with a disposable foam brush.

Yes, you can apply ArtResin as an adhesive for glass tiles and mosaics (i.e. like clear grout), and you can also pour it overtop of shard glass to make sure sharp edges are not exposed.

Yes. Depending on how high the texture is, you may need to apply multiple coats if you want a perfectly flat resin surface on top. To apply multiple layers of resin, first allow the first coat to dry, then sand down the pieces that are sticking up. The sanded areas will no longer be glossy—that is, until you resin your next layer, when it will be clear and glossy again.

Yes. Pen projects are relatively small will work with ArtResin® as a casting resin very well.

Yes. ArtResin is very durable and waterproof. Once cured, the resin does not pose a threat to aquatic life as it is inert. Although ArtResin can be indented with a fingernail in the first few days after curing, it is not typically able to be indented after the first 72 hour window. ArtResin will stay completely clear over time and not yellow like most other resins, resulting in a realistic-looking lure that will last.

ArtResin is much thicker than varnish (about 1/8" thick vs. paper thin). ArtResin is poured on like clear honey and spread out, whereas varnish is typically painted or rolled on. ArtResin is protected against the ageing (i.e. yellowing) effects of UV light, whereas varnishes typically are not.

ArtResin is a two part mixture, whereas Mod Podge is one part. ArtResin is poured on like clear honey and spread out, whereas Mod Podge is typically painted on with a brush in several coats. ArtResin is thicker and typically glossier than Mod Podge. Both act as sealants. ArtResin is protected against the aging (i.e. yellowing) effects of the sun by UV stabilization additives.

Wooden panels are best to use with ArtResin because they are sturdy. With large pieces, stretched canvas can sag in the middle under the weight of the resin.

ArtResin® does not adhere well to disposable plastic paint tarps, plastic sandwich/grocery bags, silicone molds, and the non-sticky side of shiny tape. Artists can use these properties to their advantage when creating their ArtResin® pieces (e.g. jewelry made from resin poured in silicone molds).

Yes, ArtResin can be painted on once it's dry. Some artists mix resin with pigment or dye and use it like paint on top of a first cured layer of resin. You may want to check out one of our Feature Artists, Bruce Riley, who works this way.

ArtResin® is very firm and hard once cured and is heat resistant and scratch resistant.

No, shrinkage will not occur with ArtResin®. Shrinkage only occurs in products that have solvents or non-reactive dilutents included, which ArtResin® does not.

No, cracking does not typically occur. ArtResin® is very hard and durable once cured. It has been formulated with a bit of flexibility to it to prevent cracking and brittleness.

Yes, ArtResin® is a permanent application that seals in whatever it is poured over the top of and protects the work underneath from water.

If ArtResin® freezes in its liquid state, it should be moved to a warmer place and will return to normal functioning once it reaches room temperature.

We have several months worth of data that shows that ArtResin® does not yellow even slightly when exposed outdoors to natural UV light. We do not yet know whether these results indicate ArtResin® is safe for outdoor use for years and years—the test continues! We are encouraged by the promising results thus far, and in fact we are not surprised by the results either, ArtResin®'s unique formulation uses some of the most sophisticated UV stabilising technology on the market.

In most cases, there is no need to seal your work first—ArtResin is the ultimate sealant! If you are working with low quality papers, you will likely need to use a sealant over the top first to prevent the ArtResin from seeping into the paper.

Yes, just wait until the paint is dry first.

Usually magazine clippings will hold true to their colors—it depends on the quality of ink and paper they're printed on. It helps to paint the surface underneath white, then resin as usual over the top. Some magazines pages can become translucent and show the images on the opposite side when resin is applied.

Try a glue stick—they do not contain much water so there is minimal risk of the paper rippling before you resin.

Yes, it will make the fabric stiff and rock hard after it cures. Be advised that the resin will make the fabric look wet (i.e. possibly alter its color).

Yes you can use a paint roller to spread ArtResin®. An air gun is not recommended for use with resin because it will clog the passageway as it cures. The easiest way to apply ArtResin® is by dragging the resin across the surface with an ArtResin® spreader.

1. Cut masonite board (MDF board) to the dimensions you want

2. Measure length of masonite and cut wooden edges to match that length. For small pieces, use 2 x 1″ wood. For larger pieces, use 2 x 2″ wood so it's stronger.

3. Use wood glue/corrugated nails to attach the edges to the board.

4. OPTIONAL: You can also use flat 'L' brackets to screw into the back to make the corners stay tight. If the piece is large, consider adding a diagonal cross-piece of wood from corner to corner for extra support.

5. Sand corner outer edges. Fill in gaps with wood filler putty. Let dry and sand again.

6. To prime the wood, use gesso from an art store or white ceiling paint from the hardware store

ArtResin® has no fumes or VOCs, however it makes sense to use ArtResin® in a ventilated area. ArtResin® should be kept and used at room temperature in an environment that is not too humid, otherwise surface film and other imperfections can occur in your resin as it cures.

Measure equally and accurately! Adding too much of either the resin or the hardener will alter the chemical reaction and desired effects. When you scrape the resin out of its container, avoid getting every last bit out; material on the sides may not be mixed thoroughly. As for stirring, make sure to stir thoroughly. If bubbles appear, don’t worry. Not stirring properly will result in sticky resin that never fully cures.

To spread, just use a flat semi-strong object (i.e. something that can stand up to the density and weight of the resin). Typically you will have to dispose of your spreading tool, unless you purchase reusable epoxy resin spreaders which can be used over and over again. Our Reusable Notched Resin Spreaders have different sized teeth along each size so you can drag the spreader across the surface of the artwork and in so doing, you will spread the ArtResin® evenly and efficiently.

Make sure the surface is dry and dust free. Check that the piece is level. You will want to set up a drop cloth underneath your work area. Prop your piece up on support blocks so you can resin the sides easily. You may also wish to tape off the underside of your piece to protect it from potential drips.

It is a good idea to have your piece raised off the ground on support blocks (e.g. empty plastic containers) so you can allow the resin to spill down the edges without pooling at the base, which would cause the resin to adhere your piece to the table top.

Yes, ArtResin® is self-leveling. This means you can leave it alone and it will spread itself out evenly, so long as you have a level surface. It's natural thickness is about 3mm. You will likely want to spread it around with a brush or a reusable resin spreader to guide the resin into place.

ArtResin®'s working time (also called pot life) is about 45 minutes. This is how long you have to work with the resin before curing sets in and it becomes too stiff to manipulate. You are best to apply the product as soon as it's thoroughly mixed.

Cure time refers to the amount of time it takes for the resin mixture to totally finish its chemical reaction and become its hardest state. The ArtResin® cure time is 24 hours (hard cure), however you can touch the surface after about 8 hours without it feeling sticky. ArtResin® reaches its full cure at 72 hours.

ArtResin® is formulated to be glossy, however it can be sanded down with fine grit sandpaper and then a matte medium can be applied overtop.

Resin dries (cures) faster with more heat. You can increase the room temperature or use heat lamps to encourage a quicker cure. Adding more hardener to the mixture will not work.

ArtResin® can be thinned by heating it up, thus altering its viscosity. This will cause it to cure faster. You can heat it up by placing it near a heater or in a hot water bath, so long as it's in a glass container. Plastics tend to breathe a bit which puts the resin at risk for getting water in it, causing cloudiness. Do not attempt to use solvents to thin.

You can pop bubbles by blowing on them, or with a tooth pick, however the most efficient way to vanquish bubbles is to use an Artist's Torch on them. Our handheld Artist's Torches are fueled by butane and safe for home use. The torch method is most effective because it produces a 2400º F flame that heats the ArtResin® up instantly, thus thinning it out and allowing bubbles to escape very easily.

Edges can be dealt with in different ways. Some artists like to mask off the edges entirely and aim to keep the ArtResin sitting on top of the piece, domed. Other artists only mask off the underside of the piece and allow the resin to drip over the sides, then spread it with a gloved hand. There are art panels available with a small ridge around the perimeter that creates a border for the resin and holds it all in neatly (as seen in this video: Using ArtResin on an Instagram Photo)

Drips can be sanded off afterwards, or you can use tape to mask off your edges to stop drips before they happen. You can also smooth away drips while they're still wet with a brush or your gloved hand.

ArtResin® will not stick to plastic materials such as acetate, plexiglass, polypropylene and silicone. One way to create a dam is to use a bead of silicone from a tube and applicator gun.

Put a protective covering over your resined piece (e.g. a big cardboard box). It helps to have the covering made prior to starting to resin so it's available as soon as you finish. If you are working in a garage, wet the garage floor to keep the dust down.

For the serious photographer, an area light will create an atmosphere similar to a semi-cloudy day outside. Also, a white tent or umbrella will allow you to reflect light onto your piece while projecting light away from it. If you are an artist who simply wants to document their work, just try adjusting your lights and the angle of the piece until you get a good shot without glare. If you know how, you could also take the photo in a dimmer light, and adjust the levels and color in Photoshop.

You should wait until the first coat of resin has fully cured.

Mix for at least 3 minutes, and then mix a bit more just to be sure! Remember to scrape the sides and bottom of the container to ensure thoroughness. Improperly mixed resin will not be able to catalyze and will not cure properly.

Clean with soap and water. Use disposable gloves and have paper or drop sheets on the ground to keep clean up simple. Wipe down all reusable tools with paper towel and allow any remaining residue to simply cure right on the tools.

Keeping ArtResin pieces clean is very simple: just treat it like glass. Use a gentle glass cleaner and a soft cloth and polish as you would glass.

ArtResin has the viscosity of honey, so you can brush it on with a foam brush. Repeat until everything is covered to your desired thickness. You may need to work in layers.

You can apply ArtResin as thick as you want, in multiple coats. On a flat surface ArtResin® will naturally self-level to a thickness of just under 3mm. You should wait for the resin to fully cure between coats (about 24 hours).

Yes, ArtResin can be tinted with pigment, dye, acrylic or ink, although dye can fade over time. Simply drop in colour into the mixture while stirring for an all over saturated colour, or drop it in spread out resin and watch its cool effects. We'll be offering our own line of resin tint in the coming months... watch for it!

Yes, ArtResin can be used over organic material such as butterfly wings, rocks and leaves. The resin will seal it in, protecting it from the air and preserving its natural wet colour. It is advisable to chose items that are fairly flat so the resin is sure to cover them completely. Use caution when pouring and spreading over delicate areas of your artwork and be aware that the resin is thick and can be heavy if a large amount is used. Because of this, you may wish to apply the resin in thin coats.

Yes. To achieve a textured surface, apply two coats of resin. Apply the first coat as usual and use a rag to apply the second one. This textured look looks great and covers up any imperfections.

Mix translucent dye into the resin at the mixing stage. Try multiple colours, either all at once or separated in different containers. Then apply as usual. You can also experiment with pouring ink and pigment into the resin for an interesting effect.

Yes, you can resin on stones and rocks. This will really bring out their natural colours.

Yes, you can resin walls. Keep in mind the resin will travel down the wall with gravity before it cures, as it has the consistency of honey. Keep in mind the 45 minute working time before starting any large project.

Yes, you can resin over a guitar. Work in multiple thin layers to avoid dripping. You may want to try hanging the guitar from a wire so that the drips gather at the bottom where you will drill in the strap peg.

Yes, if you use caution. Wear a respirator to avoid breathing in drilled cured resin particles. Start with a small hole first, drilled with a tiny drill bit. Work your way up from there to avoid the risk of the resin cracking. Do not drill close to the edge.

Watch the video: Achieving a 3D Effect for Photos with ArtResin®

Work in multiple coats, painting/collaging/embedding objects as you so desire between the coats.

In the mixing stage, use a small amount of amber coloured translucent dye and apply as usual. ArtResin® won't amber this way on its own!

A lace-like effect can be achieved by applying coloured resin over the top of other coloured resin while it is semi-cured.

Watch the video: Making Jewellery Pendants with ArtResin®

Yes, however ArtResin® is best for certain types of jewellery making where the resin is poured into/onto a support (e.g. pendants). ArtResin® may not be appropriate for pieces that are meant to be worn without a substrate (e.g. a bangle). Try experimenting with coloured pigments and dyes, pouring it into silicone moulds and into bezels. Add attachments like hooks, pins, beads and gems either as the resin is curing, or afterwards using a strong adhesive.

Resin each side separately, allowing the first side to fully cure before moving onto the second side. Then use a hand sander on the edges and smooth them out. Brush on thin coats of resin over the edges.

Watch the video: Encasing Beer Caps in ArtResin®

Yes. Flatter objects, like pennies, will be easier to cover totally.

Usually it is important to make sure the piece you're resining is level, but in the case of a curved surface, simply brush on multiple thin layers of ArtResin® with a foam brush.

Watch the video: Using ArtResin® in a Cutting Board Inlay

Yes, according to the FDA, ArtResin® is safe to use on surfaces that come in contact with food. Simply wait until it has fully cured before serving food on it.

Resin is self-levelling, so it will spread itself out to a certain extent without anyone touching it.

Yes, epoxy resin can be used as glue. In fact, it may be the strongest glue you will ever use. Mix and stir as usual, and apply as necessary.

Yes, you can use ArtResin® on food without it rotting, so long as you cover every square inch of the item to protect it from the air. Once resined, your food will look as fresh as the day it was resined (though it should not be eaten, obviously).

We do not recommend immersing ArtResin® in a water bath prior to mixing due to the fact that HDPE plastic breathes a little bit, and it could allow water to be absorbed into the formula causing cloudiness.

Watch the video: Using Stretched Canvas vs. Using Wooden Panels with ArtResin®

If you are pouring a large quantity of ArtResin® on a big canvas, there is a risk of the weight of the resin causing the canvas material to sag in the centre. To avoid this, first brush on a very thin preliminary coat of resin. This first coat will make the surface very stiff. After you have this hard base, apply a second coat to get the thickness you want. You can also support the canvas by custom cutting a piece of MDF board or cardboard and fitting it in the back of the piece, under the crossbar of the stretcher. Alternatively, you may want to work on wooden panels which will not pose the same risk of sagging.

Bubbles can continue to form for up to 60 minutes after the curing process has begun. The best way to get rid of them is to run an Artist's Torch over the surface of your resin. You can also blow on the surface or pop the bubbles with a toothpick, but the most efficient and effective method by far is to use the Artist's Torch.

Many bubbles do pop on their own. If you are looking for a flawless, glass-like surface however, you will want to use a torch (e.g. our Artist's Torch) over the surface, as this is the best way to eradicate all bubbles.

Yes, there are a few options to fix small imperfections

  1. You could put on another coat of ArtResin® over the entire surface. This is usually the most effective way of solving this issue.
    Watch the video: Applying a Second Coat of ArtResin®
  2. You could use a scratch/buffing compound typically used on aquariums. Look for this at your local pet store. You will need to rub very hard.
  3. You could use rough sand paper either over the entire piece, or just over the blemish. Then, use a rubbing compound or plastic polish found in automotive stores. Apply with a fine, soft cloth, rubbing until the shine comes back.

If you notice soft, sticky areas in your resin application that do not seem to be curing properly, you will have to scrape off the wet material and pour another coat. Your artwork underneath will not be disturbed. Make sure you scrape away all non-cured material and wipe the surface before re-coating, otherwise the stickiness could eventually leak out from under the new resin coat. Resin that remains sticky days after being poured will stay sticky indefinitely unless measures are taken to fix the situation. It is a result of the mixing ratio being off in some way, or mixing that was not thorough enough. If you have measured and mixed your resin properly, this problem will not occur.

Sometimes when resin is left to cure in cold conditions, the surface can develop a greasy film from the amines in the hardener. This film rapidly clogs sandpaper. The best thing to do if you detect this greasiness is wash it with warm water mixed with a small amount of dishwashing detergent. The amines are water soluble and will wash away easily.

It is extremely important to stir thoroughly, otherwise the ArtResin® may not cure properly. It is not typically troublesome if you stir more than the recommended 3 minutes. If you detect bubbles in the ArtResin® after stirring, these can be popped in many ways - no problem.

Simply apply another layer of ArtResin® over the top once the first layer has cured. Remember to keep your piece perfectly level to avoid having the same thing happen twice. Make sure to sand in between the layers so they adhere to each other properly. The second coat will go over the first and be perfectly clear.

Watch the video: Applying a Second Coat of ArtResin®

The scratchy, scuffed look of the first layer will not appear once you apply the second coat.

Depending on the shape and slope of your piece, a sander or hand planer would work to pare down cured resin. A second coat would bring back the gloss and hide the white rough surface left by the planer or sander. You could also try simply applying a second coat from the outset to level a slanted surface.

Be sure to do all your spreading well within the pot life span (usually 40-50 minutes). If you try to spread ArtResin® after it has already begun to cure, it could dry leaving textural lines in it. Typically the pot life span is plenty of time to get everything spread.

When you pour your ArtResin®, make sure you pour everything out at once. Do not pour any last drops out at a later time, as these drops could have begun to cure already, which would mean that they would not assimilate into the rest of the resin seamlessly.

Before mixing, the resin side of ArtResin® should appear clear. If the resin appears cloudy then it's likely that it has either been exposed to moisture (we have heard of this when the resin container has been submerged in hot-water in an attempt to warm it) or it could have been exposed to extreme cold conditions which can cause a cloudiness. If you're sure that no water has got into the resin then cloudiness caused by extreme cold can be undone by putting the resin in very warm conditions such as an oven at a low temperature (50°C). Bringing the resin up to 50°C in this way should restore it to perfectly clear.

Once you combine the resin and the hardener together, a chemical reaction takes place to begin the curing process. Heat is produced during this chemical reaction and is completely normal. Heat output is greater with greater quantities of the resin mixture. ArtResin® is formulated to protect against yellowing caused by thermal energy (heat).

Artwork coated in ArtResin® has a richer, more dramatic look and can typically fetch more in sales. Also, using gallery canvases (6cm thick edges) can increase the value of the artwork because these are not meant to be framed. Both ways, the client will spend more on the art from the artist but will save money in the long run because they don't have to pay for framing.

A torch is your best bet for a perfect finish. Once you have poured your ArtResin® and it is spread out evenly, run a small Artist's Torch over the surface at a distance of a few inches. You will see the bubbles rise to the surface and burn away any dust particles or hairs.

Though ArtResin® can be used on anything from fabric to canvas, to paper and ceramics, etcetera, if you are using a large quantity of ArtResin® at once, you will need to apply it to something strong enough to hold its weight. A wooden panel is very strong and reliable under the weight of resin. It will typically not sag or buckle, and can be painted any colour as a background.

If you are resining over a collage, watercolour paper or mixed media with white/light coloured paper, it is recommended that you mount the paper on a white surface. Depending on the paper you are using, your paper could turn slightly translucent under the resin, so if the surface underneath is white then your images will retain their true colours. It is always recommended that you try the resin out over your paper of choice first on a test surface.

As with most things, practice makes perfect. Your second ArtResin® job will inevitably be better than your first. The third resin job will be even better again! Keep in mind that you may not get everything perfect on your first try and that the best way to learn is to make mistakes so you can improve! Experimenting is both necessary and part of the fun of the creative process.

The best material to use to pack your ArtResin® piece is poly foam. Poly foam provides cushioning without scratching the surface of the resin. You can further pad your piece with an outer layer of bubble wrap and cardboard for extra protection. It is not advisable to use bubble wrap as a first layer because it leaves circular marks on the resin.

A soft area light is ideal. Try setting up a big white tent out of white sheets and light the outside of the cloth. This will help keep a soft light with no hot spots. You also need to angle the camera and piece the right way to avoid reflections. If you take 100 pictures, one is sure to be perfect!

If you're new to ArtResin®, it's best to test it out on a non-masterpiece first. It's very important to measure carefully and mix thoroughly so that the resin and hardener parts have the chance to react properly. So long as you pay close attention to this part of the process, you should be successful. Unlike other resins, ArtResin® is specifically formulated for creative applications, so it will not discolour your piece over time. You may want to view our customer video reviews to see what others are saying about ArtResin® and to get inspired.

If your piece is quite heavy, as it may well be after being coated in ArtResin®, simple picture hanging wire will likely not be strong enough to hold your piece on the wall. Instead, use airline cable. This can be attached with a screw and a washer, and is very strong under a lot of weight.

No, we would not recommend encapsulating wet flowers or wet organic material. Epoxy is sensitive to moisture and may well react with the flower leaving cloudy patches. Also the organic matter is likely to rot and degrade to some extent while within the resin thus spoiling the appearance.

Yes, absolutely. This is a good way of doing it. Although it's not 100% necessary to seal wood with a layer of resin beforehand it will help to stabilise the wood and will improve the flatness of the finished surface. In order to ensure that the new resin layer can bond properly to the first layer, you should abrade the surface with some abrasive paper (sandpaper) to give it a 'key'. Don't worry about it looking scuffed, this will disappear when the new layer of resin is added.



Photos can be held in place using a spray mount adhesive, taking care to avoid air entrapment or they can be glued down using a little of the ArtResin. Once bonded down, the photos can then then be coated with the ArtResin to give the gorgeous final finish!

ArtResin is not really an ideal resin for casting and turning, for a couple of reasons, both of which are really to do with what ArtResin is intended for. Artresin is designed for use as a thin coating on artwork etc. If you attempt to use it in much thicker sections then there is a real risk that the resin could overheat during cure (exotherm). The other issue is the hardness of ArtResin. Because it's designed for coating things like artwork canvases, it has a natural amount of flex to it. This is great for artworks and stops the resin from cracking if canvases or media are flexed but it does make it a little bit soft where it comes to machining and polishing.



If you're after a resin that's better suited for pen-blanks I would recommend our GlassCast 10 or GlassCast 50 products (depending on the size of the blanks you're making).

No, in a easily measurable sense ArtResin does not shrink and has a manufacturers quoted shrinkage of zero. However in practice, there may well be a very tiny amount of shrinkage, albeit immeasurable, especially if cast in thicker sections or very large casts.

Yes you can mix ArtResin with iron and other metal powders.

You could use ArtResin to coat fishing lures, yes. An alternative alternative which is popular with lure makers is ourXCR Epoxy Coating Resin which will give a similar clear glossy finish to the ArtResin but is faster curing and leaves a tougher finish.

You would be able to get a thick (around 1mm) coating on the flat surface and then a thinner (maybe 0.2mm) coating on the vertical sides. If you tried to get a thicker coating on the top and sides (by adding more resin) then you would find that the resin would just be running off.

To build up a thicker coating on the top and sides you could use multiple coats, waiting for the resin to 'gel off' in between applications. If you want something much thicker (for example 3-5mm) then you would probably be better using a casting epoxy (such as GlassCast 10 Epoxy Casting Resin) and setting up barriers around the edge of your wood with a gap for the resin to fill up (like a moat all around the wood).

Once the bottles have been opened, the shelf life is reduced to 6 months.

Art Resin is FDA approved as food safe for “incidental food contact” which in practical terms means occasional and non-continuous contact. So for example, a cheese board, serving platter or a fruit bowl.

There will always be some slight movement or fuzzying of the line between the two resins. The best way to keep the line as crisp as possible is to avoid disturbing the resin as much as possible. The more you disturb the resin, the more it will blend. Glitters are particulate matter within the resin so the edge tends to not look fuzzy or blurry.



Another thing you can do is to allow one or both of the differently coloured resins to partially cure, this makes them become thicker and so they will mix less with each other when the meet.

Yes, certainly. In fact, that is basically what ArtResin is designed for. It has a slight flexibility which makes it ideal for coating substrates that can move/flex (like a canvas). Just make sure you support the canvas underneath when you pour the ArtResin so that it doesn't sag and collect in the middle.

ArtResin, although an epoxy resin, is not designed for general purpose laminating of glassfibre and cloth materials. The resin cures with a slight soft finish and thus would not add the stiffness and hard wearing surface typically associated with a normal epoxy laminating resin.

A good quality resin for surfboard work would be our XCR Epoxy Coating Resin due to its high performance and good levels of UV resistance.

Although ArtResin is durable and offers a high level of UV resistance, we do not generally recommend it for permanent outdoor installation where the long-term effects of high levels of UV exposure, along with other environmental factors (rain, extreme temperature cycles) are not fully tested or known.

No, generally we wouldn't recommend ArtResin for kitchen worktops. Although with proper preparation, the repair (or coating) would look good, it's important to consider the limitations of a resin coated work surface.

Kitchen work tops are subject to high levels of wear and tear which will in time may scratch and dull the surface finish of the ArtResin surface however the main consideration for kitchen worktops is temperature, especially hot pans/plates etc. which would certainly mark the surface if they're placed directly onto it. As a result, you will need to use pot stands/trivets to prevent excess heat being conducted into the resin.

Although it still wouldn't be suitable for hot pans and plates, our GlassCast Clear Epoxy Surface Resin is similar to ArtResin but cures to a harder finish and so is generally better suited to coating counters, table tops etc.

Not really. ArtResin has a relatively low heat distortion temperature of 50°C so hot drinks cups, especially fresh ones, risk marking the coaster by leaving a ring.

ArtResin can be coated over the top of a fully dried water based varnish no problem. The surface will need to be keyed with sandpaper and thoroughly cleaned and de-greased prior to pouring the resin to ensure best adhesion.

What I mean is, if a sheet of paper, plastic or glass was laid on top or wrapped around the surface, would it stick? I use acrylic string gel to make my art and a problem I have encountered is that it sticks to other surfaces.



Once fully cured, ArtResin is not at all tacky. In fact, there are lots of projects that other customers and even ourselves where we coat wood or other surfaces to use for temporary food contact (like a serving platter or cake stand) and ArtResin is fully approved and safe for this purpose which should prove that there is no residual 'tackiness'.



I'm not familiar with 'acrylic string gel' specifically but unless it is stick itself then I don't see you would have any problems.

ArtResin cures to a hard finish although it always retains a certain amount of flexibility. This is by design so that ArtResin can flex slightly with the movement of canvases and other substrates, rather that crack like a harder curing resin might. In scientific terms, the hardness of ArtResin is 78 on a Shore D scale.

Yes, the mixing ratio is 1:1 by volume (resin to hardener). Whilst ArtResin suggest mixing 1:1 by volume, you can mix by weight too, however in this case the ratio is 100:84 resin to hardener when measuring by weight.



Coverage depends on the thickness you want. The calculation is that you'll need 1l (1000ml) for each mm of thickness you want per square metre of area. This means, for example, if you want 2mm of thickness over a square metre you would need 2l of resin, or, if you only had 1/2 square metre of area then the same 2l of ArtResin would give you 4mm of thickness.

ArtResin, like all epoxies, will stick to glass to the resin can certainly be used as a coating over glass. One slight consideration would be if you were thinking of casting a large volume into a glass vessel, such as a vase to simulate water in a flower arrangement; in this case ArtResin would not be suitable because this particular application requires a soft, flexible resin to avoid the risk of expansion of the resin cracking the glass vase.

ArtResin is great for coating over the top of decorative pieces including badges and similar items such as jewellery. Its UV stability is a big benefit ensuring the glossy coating will remain super-clear and its slight flexibility helps it to stay well bonded to the item even through the rigours regular wear.

Being epoxy-based you can use any of our Epoxy Colour Pigments for a solid and opaque colour. If you prefer a translucent colour (for example anywhere between a light tint to a strong semi-translucent colour) then our range of Translucent Tinting Pigments would be an ideal choice.

Methylatedspirits (meths) is good for cleaning and readily available. Acetone (nailpolish remover) can also be used for cleaning.

Working time is at least40mins (although you would rarely need this amount of time). Initial cure, when the resin is touch dry and handle-able is around 24hrs however full hardness continues to develop over a period of several days. All cure times are dependent on ambient temperature.
Yes, you can mix and use insmall quantities. The smooth finish and UV stability would probably make ArtResin a good resin for finishing on fishing rods.
No, you don’t need to wear a mask when working with ArtResin but you should work in a well ventilated environment. Please take a look at the safety datasheet and the printable instructions for full safety information.
That depends on the type of jewellery that’s being made. Allthough ArtResin is hard once cured, it does retain a certain amount of flex meaning that it’s suitable for some jewellery use (like doming) but not for making parts that need to be very hard (like a ring for example).

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